Sauna Bath

Ahhh, so you are thinking about designing a sauna. Right on! Where to start though right? Well first things first, make sure you do your research well and thoroughly before you get started with the actual building. Designing a sauna, while not terribly difficult, does need some thought put into it. One thing you need to be aware of before you get started is - if you do your research online, be very wary of web sites that tell you saunas will cure all kinds of diseases. Plain and simple, they won't. Period. Nor will you lose 50 or 70 pounds in two weeks. And you will also not burn/shed significant calories in your half hour session either. Now that you know some of the "be on the lookout for false claims" information, let's take a closer look at designing a sauna.

First is the choice of wood for your sauna. Yes, there are lots of woods on the market you could use, however, many of them have drawbacks that would cause you problems in the long run. So, the best choice of wood is kiln dried Western Red Cedar - for stability. It will not swell and shrink, like other woods. Make sure it's clear cedar or you will get skin burns from the knots. You will still need a sealant to protect the wood in the sauna.

Next, plan the size of your room. In this instance, when designing a sauna, smaller is better is actually true. Why? A smaller room means you can use a smaller heater, better circulation and smaller circuit breakers. In other words, it will save you time and money as well. Upper and lower benches should be at least 19 inches each deep (wide) and aim for your main bench wall to be 6 feet, or longer so you can stretch out. Leave enough space for your heater, and remember you need 4 inches around the front and two sides of it. The ceiling should be at least 6 ½ to 7 feet high, but no higher or your heater won't work properly. Incidentally, the whole purpose of your sauna is to enjoy the heat as it rises to the top bench, so 8 or 9 foot ceilings won't cut it.

Okay, you know where you want to put your sauna (basement, garage, bathroom, attic, under a staircase etc) and all about benches and ceiling height, next is the door. When you are designing a sauna, you want the door hinges to swing out of the room, not into it. Sauna doors are normally smaller than regular residential doors. This preserves heat when people enter or leave. For your walls, build them with 2X4 studs on 16" centers, including against cement walls.

Insulation is another consideration when designing a sauna of your dreams. It's highly recommended you use fiberglass bats at R-11 insulation in the walls and R-19 in the ceiling. Why not foam? Formaldehyde is given off at higher sauna temperatures. Also, when you are designing a sauna you will want to use the right kind of vapor barrier - aluminum foil barrier, not polyethylene. Remember your sauna produces not only dry heat but moisture. An aluminum foil barrier will handle this. You likely won't need a drain because water does not pool at your feet in a sauna. If it does, you're using way too much.

A word about venting and lighting - you need fresh air and airflow to efficiently operate your heater. Use a non-adjustable vent in the wall under the heater, or leave an air space of up to one inch between the threshold and the bottom of the door panel. Do not use conventional lighting in your sauna. It is not made to withstand sauna conditions.

While this article gives you a general idea of what you need when designing a sauna, you can find more in-depth instructions online. Just do your research well, and you will have a sauna experience like no other when you are done.

Sauna Bath |